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IMO3: Diversifying Indigenous Microorganisms

IMO3 refers to the third stage in indigenous microorganism cultivation. For a full overview of Indigenous Microorganisms, check out this article.

To get a visual idea of IMO2 — check out the video below.

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What is IMO3?

IMO3 is the stage where you increase the microbial diversity captured in IMO2 by expanding it onto a substrate (a growing medium for microbes) like rice bran, wheat mill run, or oats. You’ll mix this substrate with a carbon-rich material and allow the microbes to multiply under controlled heating conditions. This creates a shelf-stable inoculantthat can be used to enrich compost, garden beds, or potting mixes. It is, of course, also the essential ingredient in IMO4.

Below is a simple recipe to get you started.

Materials

  • IMO2
  • Carbohydrate base (e.g. wheat mill run, rice bran)
  • Carbon material (e.g. leaf mold, sawdust, rice hulls, wood chips)
  • Clean, non-chlorinated water
  • Optional: KNF inputs like BRV, OHN, SW, and/or FPJ
  • Optional: Activated Charcoal, Humic Acid
  • Mixing tools (shovel, digging/pitch fork, wheelbarrow)
  • 5-Gallon Bucket
  • Compost thermometer

Instructions

  1. Prepare your base materials – On the ground, spread out your carbohydrate base in a pile.
  2. Add carbon material – Mix in equal parts (by weight) of your carbon-rich material. Blend thoroughly until you have a loose, fluffy mix.
  3. Create a central well – Make a shallow well or crater in the center of the pile. This is where you’ll pour your liquid inoculant.
  4. In a bucket, mix your water with any optional KNF inputs (FPJ, BRV, OHN, SW) and/or humic acid. Stir well. This will be the solution you use to inoculate the pile.
    • For a 5 gallon bucket of water:
      1. Fill with 4 gallons of non-chlorinated water
        1. Add the following amounts of each KNF input:
        2. IMO2 (required) – 150 grams / 5 ounces
        3. FPJ – 30 grams / 1 ounce
        4. BRV – 30 grams / 1 ounce
        5. OHN – 15 grams / 0.5 ounce
        6. SW – 500 grams / 17 ounces
        7. Homemade Vermi-Humic Acid – 60 grams / 2 ounces
          1. Make homemade humic acid by running water through worm bin and collecting the leachate (make this the same day you use it so it doesn’t start harboring anaerobic microbes)
          2. Use half this amount (30 grams / 1 oz) for store-bought humic acid
  5. Moisten and mix – Slowly pour the solution into the center of your dry mix, blending a little at a time. Mix as you go to avoid soggy spots.
    • Ideal moisture level: when squeezed in your hand, the mix should just barely produce a drop of liquidbetween your fingers. It should hold shape when clumped, but not feel sopping wet.
    • You can also combine these in a wheelbarrow beforehand and dump it out onto the ground if it makes mixing easier.
  6. Pile it up – Shape the mixture into a mounded pile about 12–18 inches high. This will encourage microbial activity and help the pile generate heat.
  7. Cover and monitor – Cover the pile with dried leaves or breathable organic material that lets some light through. If rainy, pitch a tarp over the pile to cover it from excess moisture. Insert a compost thermometer into the center.
  8. Monitor heat – Check temperature every 12 hours (or more frequently). You’re aiming for a range of 110–120°F (43–49°C). If the pile hits 120°F or higher, it must be cooled quickly:
    • Spread out the pile to release heat
    • Turn it thoroughly and re-pile once cooled
  9. Repeat heating cycle – The pile will heat up and cool down (on its own) multiple times. Continue turning as needed. When the pile no longer heats up and returns to ambient temperature, the fermentation is complete.
  10. Store for later use – Once fully cooled, transfer your finished IMO3 to breathable storage bags (e.g. 50 lb feed sacks, burlap bags, cedar chest). Keep in a cool, dark, dry place for up to 6–12 months.

Tips & Notes

  • Don’t let your pile stay above 120°F for more than 30 minutes—you’ll limit the microbial diversity.
  • If the pile will not stay cool, experiment with adding less carbohydrate in the next batch.
  • If the pile doesn’t heat up at all, it’s possible your IMO2 may have been inactive, there was not enough carbohydrate, or the moisture was off (too dry or too wet).
  • IMO3 should smell yeasty/bready and fresh. If anaerobic/putrid/rotten smells are coming from the pile it has likely gone anaerobic and you will need to start over with a new batch
  • You can make IMO3 using local grain residues or whatever carbohydrate materials are available in your region.
  • Always use the “cleanest” materials for IMO3 (pesticide and herbicide free).

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