Most people raise chickens so they don’t have to buy eggs from the store—which makes more sense now than ever before. But if you’re throwing away their poo, you’re making a huge mistake.
Everyone knows chicken poo can be stinky, but not only is that avoidable—the way to reduce the stank is also the way to crank out some of the best compost your garden will ever see.
In this post, I’m going to show you exactly what you need to do to harness your chickens’ powerful resources, how to turn their manure into garden-ready fertility without burning your plants, and a few techniques from Korean Natural Farming that will take the whole system to the next level.
Check out our video to SEE how this works:
Chickens: The Ultimate Compost Machines
I love chickens. I’ve had them at various points throughout my life, definitely made some mistakes along the way, but I’ve also come to learn that if they’re treated right, they can be the most effective compost creators on the planet.
Compost is essential in any garden, whether you’re working with acres or just a few square feet. If you’re newer to hot composting or just need a refresher, grab my Compost Checklist (linked below)—a simple, printable PDF to help you track what goes into your compost pile, when you last turned it, and how to make sure you’re getting the best results.
The Deep Mulch System
So, where do chickens fit into compost-making?
It all starts with a method called the deep mulch system (or deep litter bedding system). This has been popularized by people like Joel Salatin for decades, and there’s almost no reason not to use it—especially if your chickens aren’t free-ranging 24/7.
How It Works
The idea is simple:
• Lay down a thick layer of carbon-rich material in the chicken coop and run.
• The thicker, the better—ideally a foot deep if you have space, but at least 3 inches as a bare minimum.
• As chickens scratch and dig, they mix their manure with the carbon materials, creating a composting process right inside the coop.
For carbon materials, you’ve got options:
• Wood chips
• Wood shavings
• Straw or hay
• Shredded paper
• Dried leaves (my personal favorite)
If you want to take it up a notch, you can even place logs at the base of the chicken pen and pile carbon material over them—similar to a hugelkultur bed. This increases longevity and adds slow decomposition to the mix.
Why This Works
Without this system, chicken manure just sits in the run, creating smelly, nasty landmines everywhere. But when it lands on deep bedding, it dries out fast, neutralizing odors almost instantly. The carbon materials soak up nitrogen, and over time, they break down into rich, perfectly balanced compost.
How to Maintain a Deep Mulch System
1. Toss down piles of carbon material—your chickens will naturally spread it around.
2. Determine your turnover rate:
• 3-inch layer? You’ll probably replace it monthly.
• Full hugelkultur-style setup? You might go years before replacing it.
3. Adjust for climate: If you’re in a dry climate (like me in Eastern Washington—only 15 inches of rain per year), water the bedding down occasionally so it doesn’t get too dusty.
4. Turn the bedding when needed: If you notice a buildup of chicken poop on top, flip it to keep things evenly mixed.
Turning the Bedding into Compost
At some point, the bedding will be so packed with nitrogen-rich chicken manure that it’s ready to be pulled out and composted.
Here’s where people often go wrong: You don’t want to just dump it directly onto your garden unless you’re 100% sure it’s broken down completely. Fresh chicken manure is too hot (high in nitrogen) and can burn plants or contain pathogens.
The Fast Track: Hot Composting
To finish the process, you can let it sit and decompose naturally for a year—or if you want compost fast, you’ll need to build a hot compost pile (aka thermophilic compost).
A pile heats up when five factors are in place:
1. Carbon (bedding materials)
2. Nitrogen (chicken manure)
3. Moisture (damp like a wrung-out sponge)
4. Oxygen (by turning the pile)
5. Size (at least 3 ft x 3 ft)
How to Make a Hot Compost Pile
1. Pile your used chicken bedding into a mound at least 3 ft by 3 ft—this helps it retain heat.
2. Moisten the pile (if it’s dry) using non-chlorinated water.
3. Flip the pile every few days to keep oxygen flowing and speed up decomposition.
4. Monitor the temperature—a good hot compost pile reaches 130–160°F. Too cold? It won’t kill pathogens. Too hot? You’ll kill off beneficial microbes.
If you don’t want to buy a compost thermometer, just stick your hand in—if you can’t keep it there for more than a few seconds, it’s working!
Once you’ve turned the pile three times, and it’s cooled down to ambient temperature, it’s ready to use.
Next-Level Upgrades with Korean Natural Farming
This method is already incredibly effective, but if you want to supercharge your system, here are three Korean Natural Farming (KNF) techniques that can take it even further:
1. Biochar (Bonus, Not KNF)
Adding charcoal (biochar) to your chicken bedding does everything carbon-rich materials do—but better. It:
• Soaks up even more nitrogen and moisture.
• Provides a mineral source for chickens to peck at.
• Acts as a microbe hotel to house beneficial bacteria and fungi.
2. Lactic Acid Bacteria (LAB)
LAB is a bacterial inoculant that fights bad bacteria, reduces odors, and keeps your chickens healthy. Spray it over bedding or add it to their water—it’s easy to make at home using rice wash water and fermented milk.
3. Indigenous Microorganisms (IMO4)
IMO4 is a locally sourced microbial inoculant. Made by collecting microbes from undisturbed forests, it transforms your chicken bedding into a living ecosystem.
• Speeds up decomposition.
• Keeps harmful bacteria in check.
• Creates supercharged compost you can’t buy anywhere.
Heads up: If you use IMO4, don’t let your compost pile exceed 120°F—hotter than that, and you’ll start killing off all those beneficial microbes.
4. JADAM Microbial Solution (JMS)
If IMO4 feels intimidating, JMS is a simpler alternative. It cultures slightly different microbes but works similarly—reducing odors, improving chicken health, and boosting composting. It’s made by fermenting leaf mold soil with cooked potatoes in water.
Don’t Sleep on Your Chicken’s Nuggets
Chickens aren’t just great for eggs—they’re compost-making machines. With the deep mulch system, a little hot composting, and some KNF techniques, you can turn chicken poop into some of the richest compost your garden has ever seen.
If you want access to basic plans for the chicken coop, Click Here.
Happy composting!